The Professor Answers Your Questions (June 07 Edition)

Do you have a question about wheels or rims for your custom hot rod or daily driver? Leave a comment and the Professor will answer.

20 Responses to “The Professor Answers Your Questions (June 07 Edition)”

  1. Mike Says:

    I have a set of wheels on my truck that extend a little too far from under the wheel well. Can you adjust backspacing on an existing wheel?

  2. Ron Says:

    I really love the design of the SLT Muscle Mags from what I have read and seen so far on the web( Great job ) , but have yet to see one up close. Even the distributes listed on the Wheel Tec site around here (Santa Rosa, CA)don’t carry them in stock. My question is, are the sides of the holes in the SLT Mag also Mirror finished or are they left rough ? And are the wheels clear coated ? Thanks for your time and effort in this matter.

  3. Larry Says:

    Thanks for your time in asking about the SLT. The sides of the holes (windows) are in an as-cast condition. The wheel is clear coated after it is machined and the window is also clear coated. The wheels can be polished including the window. Hot Rod Hanks can sell you the wheels and also polish them if you choose. There is a link to Hot Rod Hanks web site on my blog.

  4. Ron Says:

    I have another question about the SLT Muscle Mag please . When you look at the back-side what do you see? The photo from the front makes it look solid all the way through. Or will you see hollow form spaces and channels/groves in the wheel. Tomorrow I will attempt to locate a local disstributer here again, and see if they have one I can look at. There are just some things you need to see up close before ordering.And wheels are one of them.

  5. Larry Says:

    You’re correct, the back is carved out. This is done to reduce the weight. Weight reduction helps cut the cost which effects the selling price. In addition the less the wheel weighs the less unsprung weight on the suspension which in turn effects the handling and the wear on the suspension components (bearings, bushings, shocks).

    As for finding a location in you area that has a sample, you might try Stockton Wheel (800 395-9433).

  6. Ron Says:

    Thanks for the info on the SLT. I dont supose you could tell me the Diameter of the center hole and if the center cap will acomidate the lengh of my hub. Its 2.5 in long on my 1989 RS Camaro.

  7. Ron Says:

    Thanks for the info on the SLT. I don’t suppose you could tell me the Diameter of the center hole and if the center cap will accommodate the length of my hub. Its 2.5 in long on my 1989 RS Camaro.

  8. Larry Says:

    The diameter of the center bore is 3.25″. It narrows to 3.00′ at the point the cap is attached to the wheel which is about 1.125″ from the mounting face (back side) of the wheel. There is at least 3.50′ of free space under the cap so you should be okay with your 2.50″ hub length.

  9. julie spiegler Says:

    i’m trying to determine when lug nuts were first used to mount car wheels. i realize you weren’t necessarily there when this happened, but i thought you might know. thanks!

  10. Larry Says:


    Good question. I don’t know, I can only guess. I’m sure that wheels on vehicles have been held on the axel by some form of a threaded nut before motorized vehicles (horseless carriages) came on the scene. The use of a single knock-off type threaded nut is still used on race cars today. When the use of multiple studs and nuts began was probably in the early 1900′s along with neumatic tires. Sorry I can’t give you a better answer.


  11. ray Says:

    Hey Larry,
    I am buying the tq wheels but they don’t have the spinners.Do you know where i can get them?

    Thanks Ray…Moving to Fallbrook…

  12. Larry Says:

    Ray, Fallbrook is a great hot rod town. I have several friends that live in that area. I’d try Hot Rod Hanks for the spinners. I sold them my hot rod wheel business when I retired in 2006. They have a website at If they can’t help you let me know and I’ll see if I can scare up a set. Good luck.


  13. Bobby Says:

    I have a 1995 Dodge Ram that came with 16″ Chrome Clad Wheels with 1/2 stud openings. I put on a set of 2005 Dodge Ram Steel Clad Wheels with 9/16 stud openings. Instead of using the factory 3/4 Hex size bulged lug nuts. I changed to 13/16 Hex size bulged lug nuts to compensate for the extra withe on the lug nut opening on the 17″ wheels. Do you forsee any complication that I may be overlooking?

  14. windssurfer Says:

    Hi Larry,
    I think the TQ ROD wheels you designed are one of the nicest looking designs on the market today. I have them in 17 X 8″ size on my 94 Buick Roadmaster wagon and they look amazing. I constantly get a lot of positive comments on the wheels. About a year ago the chrome began to corrode around the valley of rim/spoke area. I have had them on my ride for about 4 years and have taken really good care of them. They were purchased from Newstalgia but are out of warranty now. I only use mild cleaners with a soft cloth and have waxed them often with WheelWax. In spite of the great care I have taken the corrosion is continuing. I live in So. Florida so there was never any chemical or road salt corrosion to blame. I have thought about having them rechromed but the cost is prohibitive. What would these cast wheels look like if I had them sand blasted to remove all chrome and corrosion and then polish them? I realize they will need to be polshed more often but I was wondering how the alloy metal would look un plated. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I can be reached at

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  16. Nate Says:

    Hello Larry!
    I came across your website and must say you know your wheels… I read your write up regarding lug nuts and just have some ?’s. My issue is I have a set of wheels that are suppose to be vehicle specific. However; I am not happy with the amount of thread engagement and would like to use ET lug nuts, the problem is the ET lug nuts I have measure .62 OD on the ET shank and my lug holes measure approx. .60-.62. Reading some info on here it seems safe to say I can open up the hole a little to accept the ET lug nut. I was thinking of starting with either a 5/8 or 16mm bit to see if it would remove enough material. But I’m concerned that the wheel, lug nut and or lug bolt may heat up and expand and not allow lug nut removal when being warm or causing stress on lug bolts etc. (FYI the wheels are aluminum/alloy and hub centric) So my questions would be
    1) Should I open up the hole just a minimum amount to accept the ET shank or should I drill it with some space being that the wheel is hub centric due to the materials heating up and possibly expanding? If so can you recommend a size/tolerance?
    2) My pad thickness from back side to start of conical is .500, would you say I need to clamp the wheel on to a drill press or use a hand drill and drill as straight as possible or?
    3) Also would you suggest drilling from front to back or vice versa?

    Any other thoughts or recommendations would greatly be appreciated…
    Thank You in advance

  17. Larry Says:

    Nate, great questions. It’s apparent you have done some research on this. First I would recommend using a 16mm drill. That will give you about .010″ clearence. it should be enough to allow for the hole diameter shrinkage due to heat expansion of the wheel. Second, I would use a drill press for the job to make sure you’re drilling straight and reduce the possible chatter from that size drill. Lastly, drill from the front (conical seat side) so it will help center the drill in the hole. Good luck and thanks for reading my Tech Stuff. Larry

  18. Terence Says:

    I am restoring a 1971 Buick Skylark. I have been looking at chrome Foose rims until I saw your blog. I found some really affordable 18×9 inch HRH CLASSIC ALLOY TQ CHROME RIMS. My question is can I match those with 255/45ZR18 99W tires and not have a problem with them rubbing the fenders/tirewells or can I go a little wider? Thanks in advance for you advice. Terence

  19. Terence Says:

    Will a 275-40-18 fit the car without problems? Thanks again, Terence.

  20. Larry Says:

    Terence, I have no answers for you. My best suggestion is to start by measuring the back spacing of the existing wheels and then check the all clearences (inside, outside, lock to lock) (see Tech #1) with the wheels on the vehicle. Then compare with the back spacing of the new wheels to see what the difference will be and if it will cause any interference. Make sure you check for brake clearence between the existing wheel and the new one. Good luck. Larry

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